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Coloured Gems

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At Darryn Kidner Jewellery Design we specialize in coloured gemstones, I am a gemologist and coloured gemstones is one of my passions.

There are many types of gemstones available in a huge array of colours, like the deep forest green of Tsavorite, the intense orange of the Mandarin Garnet or the candy pink Rubellite. The range of gemstone colour, size and shape is practically limitless. When thinking about a coloured gemstone its best to talk to someone who has extensive knowledge in the field. I have a nice stock of loose coloured gemstones to choose from and would be delighted to assist you in finding the Gemstone that best suits you.



Known for their warmth and shimmering beauty; Pearls, have captured hearts for thousands of years. The Latin word for Pearl literally means "unique", testament to the fact that no two pearls are identical. Pearls are one of the oldest most highly valued and sought after gems.

From the earliest time there have been countless references to the Pearl in the religions and mythology of many cultures. Ancient cultures believed pearls were a symbol of the moon and had magical powers.

A fragment of the oldest known Pearl jewellery, found in the sarcophagus of a Persian princess who died in 520 BC, is displayed at the Louvre in Paris.

There are three basic types of Pearls: natural, cultured and imitation. A natural pearl (often referred to as an Oriental Pearl) forms when an irritant, such as a piece of sand, works its way into a particular species of oyster, mussel or clam. As a defense mechanism, the mollusc then secretes a fluid to coat the irritant. Layer upon layer of this coating is deposited upon the irritant until a lustrous pearl is formed. A cultured pearl virtually undergoes the same process. The only difference is that the irritant is a surgically implanted bead or piece of shell called Mother of Pearl.

Pearls can be created from either salt or fresh water. Typically, saltwater Pearls tend to be of higher quality. Freshwater Pearls are often irregular in shape, with a puffed rice appearance being the most prevalent. Nevertheless, it is each individual pearl’s merits which determine its value, rather than the source of the Pearl.


Blinding Diamonds

The best way for me to tell you about diamonds is to have a consult. I can talk you through the different qualities of diamonds, explain the 4 c’s, certifications, the diamonds to avoid, and after discussing your budget, preferred shape I can help you make the right decision for you.

Depending on what look or design you are going for can completely change the type of diamond we need for you and your design. There is a huge amount of information on the internet that can feel overwhelming, I’m a diamond grader and can point you in the right direction and advise you to help you choose the right diamond for you.


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The cut of a Diamond is the only property which is totally dependent on man. Cut refers to the diamonds proportions, symmetry and finish or ‘make’.

Proportions and angles influence the internal reflection of light as well as the dispersion of light leaving the diamond. This determines the brilliance and fire (brightness and sparkle) of the diamond and ultimately its perceived beauty. Cut therefore, is actually one of the most important aspects to consider when choosing your Diamond. A Diamond can be cut for maximum weight recovery from the rough gem or cut to correct proportions which results in maximum brilliance and beauty.

All cuts are based on scientific formulas to maximize the return of light from the Diamond. Diamond shapes include; Round Brilliant, Princess (Square), Heart,
Carre (Square step cut), Emerald (Rectangle step cut with corners removed), Baguette (Rectangle, step cut), Marquise (Leaf shaped), Oval, Pear, Radiant (Square, brilliant cut with corners removed) Asscher (Square step cut with corners removed) or Trillian (Triangle).


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Various inclusions or imperfections such as flaws, scratches, traces of minerals and other imperfections appear in the majority of Diamonds to varying degrees. As with the colour of a Diamond; a system of grading is available to determine the clarity of the stone.

The number and size of inclusions or imperfections determines the clarity grading. Most imperfections in gem quality Diamonds (SI1 and above) are not visible to the naked eye. For this reason clarity is graded under 10 x magnification. Grades correspond to the International Clarity Grading Scale.

Diamond Grading System:

Flawless – Free from internal and external characteristics under x 10 magnification.

Internally Flawless– Free from internal characteristics, possesses external characteristics under x 10 magnification.

VVS1 – VVS2 – Very, very small inclusion or inclusions, extremely hard to find under x 10 magnification.

VS1 – VS2 - Very small inclusions, difficult to find under x 10 magnification.

SI1 – SI2 – Small inclusions, relatively easy to find under x 10 magnification, generally not visible to the naked eye through the top of the stone. International grading has been more relaxed on SI2 stones in the recent past and with most stones inclusions can be seen with the naked eye.

P1 – P3 (Piqué). Inclusions visible with the naked eye. Ranging from inclusions difficult to see through the top of the stone, to numerous inclusions easily visible. This reduces the brilliancy of the diamond.


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Most gem quality Diamonds fall within a range from “D” (colourless) to “Z” (light yellow).

Diamonds that grade from “D” to “G” are considered white. The element that colours most diamonds is nitrogen and gives diamonds a tint of yellow. “D” Diamonds are colourless and the tint in yellow very gradually increases to “Z.

The colour of a Diamond is determined on the basis of a visual assessment by comparing it to a set of master diamonds under laboratory conditions. The differences between colours are very subtle and graded according to the International Colour Grading Scale. Diamonds awarded a ‘Grade D’ are colourless, extremely rare and the most highly sought after. Diamonds that fall beyond the ‘Z’ colour grading are referred to as fancy yellow.

Within the category of fancies an assortment of vibrant colours are available. With the exception of some natural fancy colours, such as blue, pink, purple, canary yellow or red, the colourless grade is generally the most valuable.


Old european cut diamond with a custom cut onyx surround in an original Art Deco

The weight of a Diamond is expressed in carats and is the standard measurement for Diamond weight. One carat is equal to 0.2 grams. A carat is divided into 100 points.

For example: 0.50 ct = 1/2 carat = 50 points.

Diamonds are natural stones and therefore the properties of these precious gems cannot be controlled. In the mining process various sized Diamonds are discovered; smaller stones being found more frequently than larger ones. Larger carat sizes are very rare and of extremely high value.

Although weight plays an influential part in determining the value of a Diamond, two Diamonds of equal weight can have very unequal values - depending on their qualities. Furthermore weight does not always indicate size. Depending on the proportions of the diamonds, two diamonds weighing the same may appear very different in size.

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